The humble and often maligned sweatshirt and sweatpants had a moment to
bask
in their
cozy glory. The former came in charcoal jersey pieced with navy
silk and often a luscious fox
hood. In one look, she turned it into a
blouson and paired it with a matching New Look-ish
jersey skirt, and in
another, it was a hoodie tucked into a skirt with a blue-gray
astrakhan
panel in front and a dyed-to-match fox hem. Put that in your pipe and
smoke it,
Juicy. Elsewhere, she shot navy melton through with gold thread and cut
it into a
jacket with puffer sleeves. And in keeping with the puffer
panoply
on the rest of London's
runways, Ilincic did one with gracefully rounded
shoulders in a silk ink slash print. There
were few of her signature
dresses
on display, and little in the way of serious evening though
she assured
that
the sales collection back at the showroom is massive.
Last spring, Roksanda Ilincic took a sporty
approach to classically elegant clothes.
Today, she did the mirror reverse:
an elegant eye cast upon sporty clothes. As a description,
"sporty" might
even skew a bit formal. After the show, Ilincic described her source material
as
"weekend or leisure wear, the kind of thing you put on when
you're cozy at home."
Ilincic’s long, lean line was transformed by the
use of color blocking, mixing the now omnipresent
claret and deep purple
with the likes of kingfisher blue and camel, or practicing fashion’s
new idea
of reverse psychology, it’s been a week where what a
dress/coat/skirt looks like from the front
rarely bears any resemblance
to what’s happening at the back. She too made use of fur, placing
fox
around the neck and shoulders like a sporty hood, a witty update on that
fusty old 1950s idea
of a stole. Yet one thing distinctly locates Ilincic in London. Her
take on ladylike dressing doesn’t
mean carrying stately purses, but
squashy, sporty drawstring bags. They did, however,
coordinate perfectly
with the clothes.
by ANDREA JANKE
Photos: Courtesy of Roksanda Ilincic
Enjoy the entire Roksanda Ilincic Fall/Winter 2012/13 collection here >>>
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